Understanding Denier
Denier is the most important specification when choosing hosiery. It determines how sheer or opaque your stockings, pantyhose, or tights will be—and understanding it helps you pick the perfect weight for any occasion.
What Is Denier?
Denier measures the weight of the fiber used to make hosiery:
- Definition: Mass in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber
- Lower = thinner: 5 denier is ultra-sheer
- Higher = thicker: 100 denier is fully opaque
- Industry standard: Universal measurement for hosiery weight
Think of it simply: lower numbers are sheerer, higher numbers are more opaque.
Denier Categories
| Denier Range | Category | Transparency |
|---|---|---|
| 3-10 | Ultra-sheer | Nearly invisible, skin clearly visible |
| 10-15 | Sheer | Very transparent, slight sheen |
| 15-20 | Standard sheer | Most common everyday weight |
| 20-30 | Semi-sheer | Some coverage, skin still visible |
| 30-40 | Semi-opaque | Moderate coverage, slight transparency |
| 40-70 | Opaque | Good coverage, skin barely visible |
| 70-100+ | Heavy opaque | Full coverage, no transparency |
Ultra-Sheer (3-10 Denier)
The sheeerest hosiery available:
- Appearance: Almost invisible, creates slight shimmer
- Best for: Formal events, summer, open-toe shoes
- Pros: Elegant, barely-there look
- Cons: Very fragile, runs easily
- Brands: Premium lines like Wolford, Falke
At 5 denier, hosiery is almost imperceptible—people may not realize you're wearing any.
Sheer (10-15 Denier)
Classic sheer elegance:
- Appearance: Transparent with visible sheen
- Best for: Office, dates, everyday elegance
- Pros: Natural look with some coverage
- Cons: Still prone to runs
- Most common: Standard business/dressy weight
15 denier is the most popular weight for stockings and pantyhose.
Standard (15-20 Denier)
The everyday workhorse:
- Appearance: Noticeably sheer but with coverage
- Best for: Daily office wear, all-purpose
- Pros: Balance of sheerness and durability
- Cons: Not as delicate-looking as ultra-sheer
- Value: Best durability-to-sheerness ratio
20 denier offers significantly better durability than 15 with minimal opacity increase.
Semi-Sheer (20-30 Denier)
More coverage while still transparent:
- Appearance: Visible sheen, skin tone shows through
- Best for: Cooler weather, conservative workplaces
- Pros: Decent durability, slight warmth
- Cons: May look "dated" to some
- Use: Popular for support/compression styles
Semi-Opaque (30-40 Denier)
The transition zone:
- Appearance: Skin barely visible, muted tone
- Best for: Fall/spring, fashion styling
- Pros: Good durability, more warmth
- Cons: Neither sheer nor fully opaque
- Fashion: Popular in colored tights
Opaque (40-70 Denier)
Full coverage territory:
- Appearance: No transparency, solid color
- Best for: Cold weather, fashion looks, imperfection coverage
- Pros: Warmth, durability, hides leg issues
- Cons: No sheerness or bare-leg effect
- Style: Works with bold colors, patterns
60 denier is considered the standard opaque weight.
Heavy Opaque (70-100+ Denier)
Maximum coverage:
- Appearance: Thick, completely opaque, matte
- Best for: Winter, dance, costume
- Pros: Very warm, extremely durable
- Cons: Can look heavy, less elegant
- 100+ denier: Approaches legging territory
Choosing by Occasion
| Occasion | Recommended Denier |
|---|---|
| Wedding (bride) | 5-10 ultra-sheer |
| Wedding (guest) | 10-15 sheer |
| Job interview | 15-20 standard |
| Office daily | 15-20 standard |
| Date night | 10-15 sheer |
| Winter work | 40-60 opaque |
| Casual fashion | 40-80 opaque colors |
| Outdoor winter | 80-100+ heavy |
Choosing by Weather
- Summer: 5-15 denier—ultra-sheer for minimal heat
- Spring/Fall: 15-30 denier—moderate coverage
- Mild winter: 40-60 denier—warmth without bulk
- Cold winter: 60-100+ denier—maximum insulation
Durability Considerations
Higher denier generally means more durability:
- 5-10 denier: 1-3 wears typical
- 15 denier: 3-10 wears with care
- 20 denier: 5-15 wears
- 40+ denier: Dozens of wears possible
- 60+ denier: Very durable, months of wear
If you're hard on hosiery, going up 5-10 denier can dramatically extend lifespan.
Special Considerations
Reinforced Areas
Many stockings and pantyhose have different deniers in different areas:
- Toe: Often reinforced (40-60D in a 15D stocking)
- Welt: Thicker band at stocking top
- Gusset: Reinforced crotch panel
- Control top: Heavier panty section
Advertised denier typically refers to the leg portion only.
Brand Variations
Denier isn't perfectly standardized:
- Budget brands: May be slightly thicker than stated
- Premium brands: Often true to stated denier
- Different feel: Same denier can look different across brands
Experiment with brands to find your preferred fit.
Quick Reference
- Sheerest look: 5-10 denier
- Most versatile: 15-20 denier
- Best durability: 20-40 denier
- Full coverage: 60+ denier