Understanding Denier

Denier is the most important specification when choosing hosiery. It determines how sheer or opaque your stockings, pantyhose, or tights will be—and understanding it helps you pick the perfect weight for any occasion.

Denier Guide

What Is Denier?

Denier measures the weight of the fiber used to make hosiery:

  • Definition: Mass in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber
  • Lower = thinner: 5 denier is ultra-sheer
  • Higher = thicker: 100 denier is fully opaque
  • Industry standard: Universal measurement for hosiery weight

Think of it simply: lower numbers are sheerer, higher numbers are more opaque.

Denier Categories

Denier Range Category Transparency
3-10 Ultra-sheer Nearly invisible, skin clearly visible
10-15 Sheer Very transparent, slight sheen
15-20 Standard sheer Most common everyday weight
20-30 Semi-sheer Some coverage, skin still visible
30-40 Semi-opaque Moderate coverage, slight transparency
40-70 Opaque Good coverage, skin barely visible
70-100+ Heavy opaque Full coverage, no transparency

Ultra-Sheer (3-10 Denier)

The sheeerest hosiery available:

  • Appearance: Almost invisible, creates slight shimmer
  • Best for: Formal events, summer, open-toe shoes
  • Pros: Elegant, barely-there look
  • Cons: Very fragile, runs easily
  • Brands: Premium lines like Wolford, Falke

At 5 denier, hosiery is almost imperceptible—people may not realize you're wearing any.

Sheer (10-15 Denier)

Classic sheer elegance:

  • Appearance: Transparent with visible sheen
  • Best for: Office, dates, everyday elegance
  • Pros: Natural look with some coverage
  • Cons: Still prone to runs
  • Most common: Standard business/dressy weight

15 denier is the most popular weight for stockings and pantyhose.

Standard (15-20 Denier)

The everyday workhorse:

  • Appearance: Noticeably sheer but with coverage
  • Best for: Daily office wear, all-purpose
  • Pros: Balance of sheerness and durability
  • Cons: Not as delicate-looking as ultra-sheer
  • Value: Best durability-to-sheerness ratio

20 denier offers significantly better durability than 15 with minimal opacity increase.

Semi-Sheer (20-30 Denier)

More coverage while still transparent:

  • Appearance: Visible sheen, skin tone shows through
  • Best for: Cooler weather, conservative workplaces
  • Pros: Decent durability, slight warmth
  • Cons: May look "dated" to some
  • Use: Popular for support/compression styles

Semi-Opaque (30-40 Denier)

The transition zone:

  • Appearance: Skin barely visible, muted tone
  • Best for: Fall/spring, fashion styling
  • Pros: Good durability, more warmth
  • Cons: Neither sheer nor fully opaque
  • Fashion: Popular in colored tights

Opaque (40-70 Denier)

Full coverage territory:

  • Appearance: No transparency, solid color
  • Best for: Cold weather, fashion looks, imperfection coverage
  • Pros: Warmth, durability, hides leg issues
  • Cons: No sheerness or bare-leg effect
  • Style: Works with bold colors, patterns

60 denier is considered the standard opaque weight.

Heavy Opaque (70-100+ Denier)

Maximum coverage:

  • Appearance: Thick, completely opaque, matte
  • Best for: Winter, dance, costume
  • Pros: Very warm, extremely durable
  • Cons: Can look heavy, less elegant
  • 100+ denier: Approaches legging territory

Choosing by Occasion

Occasion Recommended Denier
Wedding (bride) 5-10 ultra-sheer
Wedding (guest) 10-15 sheer
Job interview 15-20 standard
Office daily 15-20 standard
Date night 10-15 sheer
Winter work 40-60 opaque
Casual fashion 40-80 opaque colors
Outdoor winter 80-100+ heavy

Choosing by Weather

  • Summer: 5-15 denier—ultra-sheer for minimal heat
  • Spring/Fall: 15-30 denier—moderate coverage
  • Mild winter: 40-60 denier—warmth without bulk
  • Cold winter: 60-100+ denier—maximum insulation

Durability Considerations

Higher denier generally means more durability:

  • 5-10 denier: 1-3 wears typical
  • 15 denier: 3-10 wears with care
  • 20 denier: 5-15 wears
  • 40+ denier: Dozens of wears possible
  • 60+ denier: Very durable, months of wear

If you're hard on hosiery, going up 5-10 denier can dramatically extend lifespan.

Special Considerations

Reinforced Areas

Many stockings and pantyhose have different deniers in different areas:

  • Toe: Often reinforced (40-60D in a 15D stocking)
  • Welt: Thicker band at stocking top
  • Gusset: Reinforced crotch panel
  • Control top: Heavier panty section

Advertised denier typically refers to the leg portion only.

Brand Variations

Denier isn't perfectly standardized:

  • Budget brands: May be slightly thicker than stated
  • Premium brands: Often true to stated denier
  • Different feel: Same denier can look different across brands

Experiment with brands to find your preferred fit.

Quick Reference

  • Sheerest look: 5-10 denier
  • Most versatile: 15-20 denier
  • Best durability: 20-40 denier
  • Full coverage: 60+ denier