The Seamless Stocking Revolution

In the late 1950s, circular knitting technology transformed hosiery forever. Seamless stockings—and later pantyhose—replaced the seamed fully fashioned stockings that had dominated for decades. It was the end of an era.

Seamless Revolution

The Problem with Seams

Fully fashioned stockings had a visible seam running up the back:

  • Constant adjustment: Women checked and straightened seams constantly
  • Crooked embarrassment: Twisted seams were considered sloppy
  • Manufacturing cost: Seaming was labor-intensive
  • Comfort issues: Seams could be felt against furniture

Despite these drawbacks, there was no alternative—until circular knitting matured.

Circular Knitting Technology

The key innovation was the circular knitting machine:

  • Tube construction: Fabric knitted in a continuous tube
  • No seam needed: Already a cylinder shape
  • Faster production: Much quicker than flat knitting + seaming
  • Lower cost: Fewer workers needed
  • Heat setting: Tubes shaped to leg form using heat

Early Attempts

Seamless hosiery wasn't new in 1959—earlier attempts had failed:

  • 1930s experiments: Early circular-knit stockings existed
  • Poor fit: Didn't conform to leg shape well
  • Inferior appearance: Couldn't match seamed sheerness
  • Consumer rejection: Women preferred seamed stockings

Technology needed to improve before seamless could compete.

1959: The Breakthrough

Advances in fiber technology made seamless viable:

  • Stretch yarns: New elasticized nylon conformed to legs
  • Heat setting: Improved methods shaped tubes accurately
  • Sheerness achieved: Finally matched seamed appearance
  • DuPont partnership: Fiber companies drove innovation

When seamless stockings could finally look as good as seamed, adoption exploded.

Consumer Benefits

Women embraced seamless stockings quickly:

  • No straightening: Freedom from seam anxiety
  • Modern look: Sleeker, cleaner appearance
  • Lower prices: Production savings passed to consumers
  • More availability: Higher production = better supply
  • Fashion evolution: Compatible with changing styles

The Miniskirt Connection

Seamless technology arrived just in time for the miniskirt revolution:

  • Seams problematic: Visible seams didn't work with miniskirts
  • Pantyhose impossible: Seamed pantyhose would have been absurd
  • Perfect timing: Technology met fashion need
  • Rapid adoption: Seamless dominated within a decade

Market Transformation

The shift happened remarkably fast:

Year Seamless Market Share
1958 ~5%
1960 ~20%
1963 ~50%
1965 ~75%
1968 ~95%

By the late 1960s, fully fashioned production had nearly ceased.

Industry Upheaval

The transition devastated traditional hosiery manufacturers:

  • Factory closures: Fully fashioned mills couldn't compete
  • Job losses: Seaming departments eliminated
  • Machine obsolescence: Flat-knitting equipment worthless
  • New players: Companies with circular machines dominated

What Was Lost

Seamless stockings couldn't replicate everything:

  • Cuban heels: Impossible with circular knitting
  • Fashion marks: No fashioning = no marks
  • Heel variations: French heels, point heels lost
  • Craftsmanship: Industrial process replaced artisanal
  • The seam itself: Many women missed the classic look

Mock Seams

To satisfy seam lovers, manufacturers created "mock seam" stockings:

  • Printed seams: Dark line printed on seamless stockings
  • Back-seam pantyhose: Seam added for appearance only
  • Controversy: Purists dismissed them as fake
  • Market segment: Created new niche category

Today's seamed stockings are usually mock-seam construction.

Pantyhose Era

Seamless technology made pantyhose practical:

  • Circular-knit legs: Seamless tubes joined to panty
  • Mass production: High-volume, low-cost manufacturing
  • L'eggs revolution: Supermarket distribution changed retail
  • Disposable mindset: Low cost meant less careful wear

The hosiery industry would never be the same.

Legacy

The seamless revolution's impact endures:

  • Standard method: Virtually all modern hosiery is seamless
  • Pantyhose possible: Led directly to all-in-one hosiery
  • Lower prices: Hosiery became affordable for everyone
  • Vintage nostalgia: True seamed stockings now collector items

Revolution Timeline

  • 1959: Viable seamless stockings debut
  • 1963: Seamless reaches 50% market share
  • 1965: Fully fashioned production declining
  • 1970: Seamed stockings nearly extinct