Seamed Stockings

Seamed stockings feature a visible line running up the back of the leg—the "back seam." Originally a manufacturing necessity, seams became a defining vintage style element. Today, seamed stockings are made deliberately for their aesthetic appeal and retro glamour.

History of the Seam

Early stockings were made on flat knitting machines—the fabric had to be sewn together to form a tube shape. This created a visible seam up the back of the leg.

In 1939, circular knitting machines were developed, enabling seamless stockings. By the 1960s, seamless had become the norm. However, the seam had become so iconic that manufacturers began adding decorative seams to seamless stockings purely for fashion.

Types of Seams

French Heel

The classic seam that runs straight up the back of the leg with a reinforced heel section. The heel reinforcement creates a slight horizontal line where it meets the vertical seam, forming the "French" shape.

Cuban Heel

Features a contrasting color heel—typically darker (black or brown) against nude legs. The heel section forms a distinct square or curved shape. Very popular in the 1940s-50s.

Havana Heel

Similar to Cuban but with a taller, more elongated heel design. Creates dramatic contrast.

Point Heel

The heel reinforcement comes to a point where it meets the seam, creating an arrow-like shape.

Keyhole

Decorative opening at the top of the seam, near the welt. A signature design element of certain vintage styles.

Seam Colors

• Black on nude: Classic contrast, most popular
• Self-color: Seam matches stocking color, subtle elegance
• Contrast color: Red, white, or other bold seams for statement looks

Wearing Seamed Stockings

The challenge with seamed stockings is keeping the seam straight. Tips:

• Center carefully: Position the seam exactly center-back before attaching to garter belt
• Adjust the garters: Front and back garters should pull evenly to keep seam straight
• Check regularly: Seams can twist with movement—straighten as needed
• Practice: Getting seams perfectly straight takes time to master

True Seam vs. Faux Seam

True Seam (Fully Fashioned)

Fully fashioned stockings are knitted flat and seamed together—the seam is functional and structural. These are premium, heritage-style stockings made on vintage machinery. Features include fashion marks (dots along the seam) where the fabric was shaped during knitting.

Faux Seam

Modern stockings knitted in a tube with a decorative seam added. More affordable and widely available. The seam is purely aesthetic—not structural. Quality faux seams look nearly identical to true seams.

Seamed Pantyhose

Seams are also available on pantyhose—though less common than seamed stockings. Seamed tights offer the vintage look with the convenience of all-in-one hosiery.