Fully Fashioned Stockings
Fully fashioned (FF) stockings are made using traditional flat-knitting machines that create the stocking shape by adding and removing stitches—"fashioning" the fabric to fit the leg. The flat panels are then seamed together, creating the signature back seam. This heritage construction method produces premium stockings prized for fit and authenticity.
How Fully Fashioned Differs
| Feature | Fully Fashioned | Modern Circular Knit |
|---|---|---|
| Knitting method | Flat, shaped panels | Seamless tube |
| Seam | Structural, sewn | Decorative (if any) |
| Shaping | Knitted into fabric | Relies on stretch |
| Fit | Contoured to leg shape | Stretches to fit |
| Price | Premium | Economy to mid-range |
| Production | Slow, limited | Fast, mass production |
The Construction Process
- Flat knitting: Fabric knitted on flat bed machines
- Fashioning: Stitches added at calf, removed at ankle to create shape
- Fashion marks: Visible dots where stitches are transferred
- Seaming: Flat panels sewn together up the back
- Heel pocket: Shaped heel section for comfortable fit
Identifying Fully Fashioned
Genuine fully fashioned stockings have distinctive features:
- Fashion marks: Small dots/points along the back seam where stitches were transferred during shaping
- True seam: Actual sewn seam, not just a printed/woven line
- Shaped heel: Contoured pocket for the heel, not just a tube
- Shaped calf: Wider at calf, narrowing to ankle
- Welt construction: Proper reinforced top band
History
All stockings were fully fashioned until 1939 when circular knitting was invented:
- Pre-1939: Fully fashioned was the only method
- 1940s-50s: Golden age of nylon FF stockings
- 1960s: Circular knit and pantyhose took over
- Today: FF is a specialty, heritage product
Why Choose Fully Fashioned
- Authentic vintage style: The real deal for retro looks
- Superior fit: Shaped to leg contours, not just stretched
- Comfort: Less tension, more natural feel
- Quality: Finer materials, careful construction
- Collector appeal: Heritage product, limited production
Fully Fashioned Styles
Cuban Heel
Contrasting dark heel—the classic 1940s-50s look.
French Heel
Smaller, self-colored heel section.
Point Heel
Heel reinforcement comes to a decorative point.
Keyhole
Decorative opening at top of seam.
Wearing Fully Fashioned
FF stockings require a garter belt—they're not made as hold-ups. Tips:
- Proper garter belt: FF welts are designed for traditional clips
- Straight seams: Take time to align seam perfectly center-back
- Gentle handling: Higher denier than ultra-sheer, but still delicate
- Hand wash only: Preserve the construction
Where to Find
Fully fashioned stockings are made by specialty manufacturers:
- Gio (UK)
- Cervin (France)
- Secrets in Lace
- What Katie Did
- Vintage reproduction sellers
Expect to pay significantly more than regular stockings—production is limited and labor-intensive.
Authenticity Note
Many stockings have printed or knitted "seams" and "fashion marks" to mimic the fully fashioned look. True FF stockings are flat-knitted with genuine seams and transfer marks. The price difference is significant—genuine FF costs 3-5x more than imitation.