The History of Silk Stockings

For centuries before nylon's invention, silk was the ultimate luxury hosiery material. Sheer, lustrous, and expensive, silk stockings were status symbols worn by royalty, aristocrats, and eventually the fashionable middle class.

Ancient Origins of Silk

Silk production began in ancient China around 2700 BCE:

• Sericulture: Silk cultivation kept secret for millennia
• Silk Road: Trade routes brought silk to the West
• Imperial monopoly: Chinese emperors controlled production
• Penalties: Revealing silk secrets was punishable by death

Silk eventually spread to Japan, India, and the Mediterranean—but remained precious and expensive everywhere.

Silk Stockings in Europe

The first silk stockings appeared in Europe in the 1500s:

• 1560: Queen Elizabeth I receives her first silk stockings
• Royal fashion: European courts adopted silk hosiery
• Hand-knitted: Each pair made individually by skilled craftsmen
• Status symbol: Only the wealthy could afford them

Elizabeth I reportedly loved silk stockings so much she refused to wear anything else: "I like silk stockings so well, because they are pleasant, fine and delicate."

The Stocking Frame Revolution

In 1589, William Lee invented the stocking frame—a knitting machine that revolutionized hosiery production:

• Machine knitting: Faster, more consistent production
• Lower costs: Though still expensive, prices dropped
• Better fit: More uniform sizing
• English industry: Framework knitting centered in Nottingham

Elizabeth I refused Lee a patent, fearing unemployment for hand-knitters. He moved to France.

18th-19th Century: Men's Fashion

During this era, silk stockings were primarily men's fashion:

• Courtiers: Required for formal court dress
• Breeches: Knee-length pants demanded visible stockings
• White silk: Most fashionable for formal wear
• Clock designs: Decorative embroidery on the ankle

As men's fashion shifted to long trousers in the 1800s, silk stockings became increasingly associated with women.

Silk Stockings for Women

By the late 1800s, silk stockings were feminine luxury items:

• Black silk: The fashionable choice
• Hidden: Worn under long skirts, rarely seen
• Intimate gift: Stockings were romantic presents
• Status indicator: Quality of stockings showed wealth

The 1920s Revolution

The 1920s flapper era changed everything:

• Shorter skirts: Hemlines rose to the knee
• Visible legs: Stockings now on display
• Sheer silk: Flesh-colored for bare leg appearance
• Democratization: Middle class women demanded silk
• Mass production: American silk mills expanded

Silk stocking sales exploded—but so did demand beyond what silk production could meet.

Properties of Silk

Silk had unique characteristics that made it prized:

Silk's beauty came at a cost—frequent replacement was necessary.

Japan: America's Silk Source

By the 1930s, Japan supplied 90% of America's raw silk:

• Major industry: Silk was Japan's biggest export
• American dependence: No domestic silk production
• Political tension: Rising conflict in the Pacific
• Supply vulnerability: War would cut off silk

This dependence motivated DuPont's search for a synthetic alternative.

The End of Silk Dominance

Nylon's introduction in 1939 spelled the end:

• Superior properties: Stronger, more elastic, cheaper
• American production: No foreign dependence
• Consumer preference: Women preferred nylon's durability
• WWII: Japanese silk embargo made nylon essential

After WWII, silk stockings never recovered. Nylon had permanently replaced them.

Silk Stockings Today

Modern silk stockings are rare collectibles:

• Vintage markets: Original silk stockings are collector items
• Artisan production: A few makers still create silk hosiery
• Extreme luxury: Prices start at $100+ per pair
• Niche appeal: Historical costumers and purists